The blog got away from me here. Arriving in the Abacos was a bit of a blur. It felt like the clock was ticking. We needed to provision, plan our exit route before our travel visa expired; search for the best weather window; and say farewell to the Bahamas. To compound all this, we had Long Shot riding our coat tails, hailing us on our VHF each morning asking what “our” plans will be.
This is the most unwelcome question after a rough sail, followed by an even rougher overnight anchorage. We felt dizzy, queasy, sleep deprived, and irritable. In retrospect, we misinterpreted cruisers’ rave reviews of the Abacos. It couldn’t have been the sailing they enjoyed because, in comparison, it was shallow, with at times, large pieces of debris floating around, and a few uncharted boulders. On a positive note, the Abacos made it easier for us to say farewell to the Bahamas.
This is the reality of cruising and life; circumstances and mindset can dictate experience. We dropped anchor outside of Hope Town. It was shallow; the shallowest water we have anchored in but we were floating. Long Shot expressed fret over this decision but followed suit. In a matter of hours Long Shot left, we assume out of discomfort, never contacting us again.
We had the good fortune of connecting with S/V Shiloh, a couple our age, that were also looking for a weather window to sail to Charleston, SC., just like us.
We loved Shiloh because there was space to make decisions in regards to what was best for us. There was no pressure to always have to be anchored in the same place but an understanding that needs and priorities of our final days may not align; though our plan of departure did. We both checked out at Green Turtle Cay and made a final departure from Great Sale Cay to Charleston, SC.
Thankfully, the three-day sail to Charleston was relatively uneventful; just the way we like it! We surfed the Gulf Stream into Charleston harbor in the daylight; our top speed reached 13.7 knots. As we entered the harbor, winds started whippin’ at 25 knots which we traversed slowly to be able to time the current and our arrival into the Charleston Maritime Center Marina; which we did unscathed. At this point we are only one hot shower and meal away from feeling human again.
The next morning we were primed and ready for exploration of Charleston’s deep and dark past; from dungeons to dive bars and everything in between with Sean and Emily from S/V Shiloh. Our exploration together continued up the east coast all the way to Beaufort, North Carolina. The intracoastal waterway (ICW) was sprinkled with tiny coastal towns overflowing with charm and hospitality. Every single place we stepped foot on was our favorite.
The one disclaimer we have, if that given the option, consider skipping Dewees Creek (S. Carolina), especially if strong winds are anticipated. The scenery was beautiful but the holding was poor; there was uncharted shoaling; and the current was strong. Add some gusty winds into the mix…let’s just say it wasn’t pretty.
The thing about the ICW is that you have to focus on the coastal towns. If you don't you then are left with hours of motoring along a long narrow stretch of brown water. Sailing opportunities are minimal; so you let that go and take in the calm water and in turn opportunities to practice yoga, read, exercise, and all the things you do to pass the time.
One might wonder, why didn't you write? Why did you let it go for so many months? I don't know if I have the answer to that. Perhaps I was in a bit of a doldrum after the Bahamas. It felt difficult to keep up. My journey-destination approach was no longer sustainable so I shifted that energy to Instagram. I questioned what the point of this blog actually was. I decided that it's to document the stories that pictures don't tell. If you want pictures and brief stories, they will be on Instagram which is also shared to Facebook but moving forward this space will be for documenting the experiences that pictures don't always capture.
